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Black tort is <aaB_C_D_ee>. Sable point is <aaB_c(chl)_D_ee>. They're both self <aa> and non-extension <ee> so all of their offspring will be too. You can expect more torts. Depending on what each carries at their second C locus, you might also get ermine aka frosty, more sable points, seal...

That's a neat idea to keep the box in place in the cage. I've used cup hooks screwed into the back of the box, to latch it to the back of the cage, too. As far as legs getting stuck - what happened was that the kits' legs got caught in the 1x1/2" spaces in the wire. Those openings are big...

Pretty nice system! I love how easy it is to maintain cleanliness! I'm not sure it would work in cold climates, though... I love wire-bottomed boxes, but usually switch to solid-bottomed-boxes in colder times of year since some of my does have strong opinions about nesting material and the...

@jaxmarblebuns is right, you can expect to see tricolors. All of their bunnies will be chocolate-based (either chocolate, and/or its dilute version, lilac, if both parents happen to carry a hidden dilute <d>). In addition to chocolate tricolors, you could expect solid chocolate harlequins...

Yes, I grew up in SoCal and know scrub jays very well; a good friend in grad school at UCDavis did her doctoral work on them. They're actually not that much smaller than magpies, as well over half a magpie's length is its tail. But they are a lot smaller than ravens (Alaskan ravens are bigger...

Hm, the few times I've had <aa> harlequins they were always weird, messy-looking torted harlies. I can't say for sure whether they were <e(j)e(j)> or<e(j)e> rabbits; maybe they were all the latter. As far as I know there was no non-extension <e> in the lines, but of course that can hide for a...

Yeah, we had those (latches). Even with something looped through them, the ravens opened them. 😖 We then put a small locking carabiner through the latch, which was a pain for us but finally stopped them from opening the tray doors... but they still pecked the eggs open from underneath, and...

We had both ravens and magpies hunting our rabbitry, quail cages and chicken run for years when we lived in town. I had magpies do exactly what you're describing when I'd shelved the litters (so the nest boxes were sitting outside the cages in the rabbit shed), except that they'd pull the kit...

That's what I thought, too! And then, "Racy" (Racey?). My little one says, "Red Racer." :LOL: Another says, "Drone" (I think the RC means remote control to him). None of them particularly lyrical... :rolleyes:

Like @eco2pia says, the very first thing is to check the water source and be sure it's working properly. Emptying, cleaning and filling the bottle/bowl with fresh water might be a good idea too, in case there's something that her pregnant self doesn't like about the water she has now. I like...

Beautiful color (in the eye of the beholder): Harlequin buck. He and the red doe are both agoutis, so you'll get more harlequins, possibly some chestnuts, maybe more reds. If you use the otter, among others you'll probably get harlequinized otters, which can look kind of messy. The harlequin...

Yaks, Goats, Rabbits, Chickens, Quail, a canary named Amadeus and an ancient grumpy old man chinchilla named Chuckie. Oh, and the tropical fish...

If one, or both, of the parents have rex fur, you can be certain every kit will carry it, but they may not have rex fur themselves. So if you breed a NZ x Rex, all of the kits will be normal-coated, but all will carry the needed gene. Pick the fastest-growing of those kits for your next...

If there is no bleeding or scab formation, its probably what's known as "barbering," although from the photo it looks like she may have taken a bit of skin off his nose. This could be part of the establishment of the dominance hierarchy that even just two rabbits need to work out; it's not...

Yeah, sometimes bucks do that; I suspect it's a marking behavior. (Ugh.) I definitely wouldn't send him to auction... Do unto others, etc. The only way I'd sell him was to someone looking for meat who would butcher right away, or to someone looking for a pet who knew what they were getting...

If it's growth rate you're after, keep track of bunny weights (at least weekly) and choose the ones with the fastest growth for your next generation breeders. Note that those may not be the very biggest bunnies. Of course you don't want to keep runts (which sometimes have a significant growth...

Ah, that's helpful. I think the current "weird" kit is a double-maned (lionhead) kit. Double-maned kits have those interesting pink wedges on their sides and hindquarters. Both of the parents look like they're single-maned, so it would make sense. So it could be a double-maned seal...

When a rabbit has serious sore hocks, it's too miserable to do much of anything, so it will very often lose condition pretty dramatically. And when it goes off its feed, its gut gets upset, which makes it even more uncomfortable, and so it goes... Add to that the above-mentioned tendency to...

They're meat rabbits, so he's not necessarily spending extra time or resources. The OP's already got the NZ and Rex stock, and he'll be breeding and feeding rabbits no matter what. He said has been raising NZs for over 10 yrs (it actually said 10 hrs, but I'm guessing that's a typo! :ROFLMAO:)...

It's probably not going to be that simple or quick. Like as not, the fastest-growing F3 bunnies will be the ones that don't get the rex coats... Expect to spend a few generations moving toward your goal, and a few more to get it set in your stock so they produce fast-growing rex-coated kits...